nick fairfield

Our final day started with a quick breakfast, followed by getting my bike sorted after the previous days punctures. Thankfully David had some spare rim tape. That was soon put on, and the bike was back to full working order, ready to tackle the days climbs. This was to be quite a hard day of climbing but would finish with a great descent. We were to begin with the Port de Pailheres (2001m), included in this years Tour de France but climbed from the other side, the Col de Garavel (1256m) and the Col de Jau (1506m). Out of Ax-Les-Thermes the first few kilometres retraced our descent from the Col de Chioula the previous day, before reaching the junction that would take us up the Port de Pailheres. As we waited to regroup at the junction a group of about 15 cyclists rode by. They were certainly going a good pace and were tightly grouped as well, even on the climb. The Port de Pailheres was to be our longest climb of the week at 19km (and our second highest) but the lower slopes were relatively gentle in gradient. A few kilometres after restarting the climb I rode past a lake, with a great view across to the peaks, surrounded by trees and a few people fishing.

After passing through a couple of small villages the climb became harder. The road seemed to open out and became wider too. I felt like I was going through a bad patch and wondered if I had eaten enough breakfast. Maybe this was just in my head. Imogen had stopped by the side of the road and was taking photos of us all. I asked if she could get some food for me further on, but I didn’t want to stop at that point. The sun was starting to get higher in the sky and, for the first time, I was really sweating. I could feel it dripping off my forehead. At this point the road just seemed to be going on and on, straight ahead. There were few hairpin bends on the road. No targets to reach. I passed a group of children by the side of the road, some of them shouted ‘Allez, Allez’, which gave me more encouragement. Climbing above the tree line I had got through my bad patch and I felt quite strong. This was a tough climb, though, and whilst I had the kilometre signs to count down with, the last three kilometres seemed to take forever. I could see Matt further ahead, because the road was so straight, so I focussed on where he was going. I saw him ride between two shallow peaks so I guessed that was the top. Eventually, I made it to this point but there was just a car park. The road narrowed and carried on, upward, for a few more hundred metres. I finally got to the top and the view was breathtaking.

The descent from the Port de Pailheres was probably the hardest of the week. The road was very narrow with a poor surface and lots of hairpin bends at the top where you had to be careful. Further down, the road opened up, but the road surface was so poor that at speed it felt like my bike would be shaken to pieces. It was not an enjoyable descent and I was glad to reach the bottom where we took a break in a cafe in a small village.

From the cafe we rode a few kilometres along a tree lined valley before coming to the foot of the Col de Garavel, just beyond the village of Escouloubre-les-bains. The climb was not too long at about 7 km but the weather was still hot and we soon climbed above the trees. With the drier climate on this side of the Pyrenees there appeared to be fewer trees to shelter from the sun. The climb was on a minor road with a few hairpin bends but very little traffic. One of the great things about the roads that we cycled on was the lack of traffic. On the major climbs such as the Tourmalet, Aubisque and Peyresourde, and also around the main towns such as Argeles-Gazost, Bagneres-de-Luchon or Ax-les-thermes there may be a little more traffic, but still nothing like on British roads. On the minor roads which we mostly travelled on most of the traffic consisted of camper vans and caravans, but there were few of those even. At the top of the Col de Garavel we broke for lunch, sitting out in the sun under a cloudless sky.

After another fine lunch we made a tricky descent. The road had numerous gravel patches. You really had to look out for these otherwise you would be off the bike and on the road with gravel rash. We descended for about 11 km to the foot of our final climb of the day, and week, the Col de Jau. Once we had regrouped we started to climb. Matt was just ahead me of but as he changed down on to his small chain ring, the chain dropped off the ring and he suddenly had no forward motion. He couldn’t get his foot out of his pedal quick enough and he toppled over. One of the hazards of being a cyclist. Matt got his bike sorted out and we started the climb again, avoiding the gravel traps which would cause our wheels to spin on the climb. We climbed for another 11 km. It was a steady climb, the lower slopes amongst the trees with streams coming off the mountain, running by the road. When we reached the summit of the col we congratulated each other on making it to the top of all the climbs. We layed out on the grass waiting for the others to arrive. I took off my cycling shoes to cool my hot feet.

We would now descend for 25 km (our longest of the week) into the town of Prades where our journey would end. The descent started with the usual hairpin bends and I was intent on trying to stay with David and Geoff, so I was going to go all out. I was holding on to them as we passed a car between two bends. But a few corners later I was starting lose contact and I couldn’t hold on. I decided to back off for the rest of the descent. Once off the top slopes the road traversed the side of a valley. I came into a village perched on the valley side where the cobbled sections had to be taken with care. Out of the village the road crossed the valley of the river. I looked back and took in the picturesque view of the village. Part of me wanted to stop and take in the view, but this was such a great descent that I just wanted to carry on. As we descended further the heat was building the closer we came down to sea level. Coming into Prades itself it was the hottest it had been all week but this was now the end of our journey.

We gathered in Prades where Phillipe was waiting for us with the van. Our bikes were stored in the back before we made the transfer to our hotel in Amelie-les-bains. We enjoyed our evening meal before heading into town. Over a few drinks we looked back on our week. We had ridden about 370 miles from the Western side of the Pyrenees to the East, over 19 cols. Before I started the journey I really didn’t know what to expect. I admit that at first I found it hard and was worried that I might not make the climbs. I think the turning point was the Tourmalet. Looking back, despite the cold, this was the highlight for me. Once I had made this climb I knew that I would make the others. It was a case of bring on the next climb. Nothing was going to stop me. I know I wasn’t the quickest climber but I was comfortable in what I achieved. The other highlight was probably the climb of the Port de Pailheres. It was a hard climb which just seemed to go on forever but it was a great achievement to reach the top. The thrill of descents was also a highlight too. Descents are awesome.

The next day was a case of packing up the bikes and heading for the airport (I won’t mention about the journey home. It wasn’t great). But before we set off we waved goodbye to my room mate Phil, who would be enjoying a few more days cycling. He was planning to ride to Carcasonne, where he would get the train to Bordeaux and his flight home. Thanks for your company, Phil.

Also, a big thank you to Donise, Hugh, Gareth, Geoff, Matt, Pete, Rob and Vince, my fellow travellers. Also a big thank you to David, Imogen and Phillipe, our tour guides, for their help in getting us through the week, and for the lunches. Thank you everyone for a great holiday.

After the Pyrenees, what next? I think the Alps are beckoning.

After the long ride of the previous day, today was to prove a little easier. I was certainly glad of that and the sun was shining again. The route this day was to take us out of Massat and over the Col de Port (1250m) before a long undulating climb up to the Col de Marmare (1361m) en route to the Col de Chioula (1431m). We would finish in Ax-les-Thermes, famous for it’s thermal springs. But before we set off I was able to adjust my headset with the spanner that Phillipe had found so that I had it my liking. But it was not to be the only bike problem I would have today.

On the climb of the Col de Port we were joined by Pat, the masseur, and her husband as well. Imogen was also back on the bike after her hand had healed enough for her to ride, but Pete had decided that he needed a rest day and so was in the van with David. It was a fairly gentle, steady climb, the 12 kilometres taking us through the trees with some great views too. Part way up the the climb we passed over the Col des Caougnous as well. This really wasn’t that noticeable, apart from the sign to mark it, as the road just seemed continue up. Gareth wanted to include this when counting the number of cols we had done but some of us weren’t really sure it should count.

Once again we regrouped at the top of the col before a fairly long descent down into the town of Tarascon-s-Ariege. The weather was feeling quite hot by now so we took a break in a cafe in the busy town. I was certainly feeling more relaxed today, with the easier pace, and it was great to be sat out in the sun in the cafe. But we couldn’t relax for too long before we were back on the bike. The next climb, David insisted, was undulating in an uphill direction. Out the back of Tarascon the climb started gently on a minor road but it was soon ramping up a bit steeper, enough for the group to break up again. However, after a few kilometres of the slightly steeper stuff the road did indeed begin to become more undulating rather than uphill all the time, as we passed through quiet villages of just a few houses. With the road seeming to be traversing the valley side, the views were great looking across to the other side of the valley and the peaks above. This area of the Pyrenees, the more eastern side, is a little different to the area around the Tourmalet. It is not as green and the peaks do not seem as high, but for that, I think the views are still impressive (although, of course, we did not get see the views from the Tourmalet). We stopped for lunch at a picnic site with a wonderful view looking down into the valley. We sat under the shade of the trees fuelling up on the usual baguettes and cheese and ham amongst other things.

After lunch the road undulated some more as it followed the valley side. Before long, however, it turned more into the mountain and into the forest. It was certainly getting hot now and I was thankful to be riding in the shade of the trees for some of the time. I took a short stop for a photo opportunity at a tight bend in the road (see below of one David took, the only one you are getting of me), but a short distance further on I began to feel that something was not right with my bike. Soon my front tyre was flat and I had to stop. After struggling a while to get the Bontranger tyre off with the help of David and Pete, who had stopped in the support vehicle (I am not getting these tyres again as they are a pain to get off the rims), I was back on my way. Gareth and Donise had passed me whilst I was seeing to my puncture so I was last on the road and I had another chase on. But it was only another 3 or 4 Km before I reached the top of the Col de Marmare where the others were waiting for me.

From the Col de Marmare it was only short ride to the top of the Col de Chioula as we went back on to the main road. It was a case of straight over the top of the col before a short, but fast, descent on new tarmac down into Ax-les-Thermes. The descent takes you straight down into the centre of town where our hotel was. I saw Geoff and Hugh outside our hotel so I rode over. As I stopped there was hissing sound from my front tyre and it went flat again in just a few seconds. I couldn’t believe I had another puncture but was thankful it had not gone flat on the descent, where I had reached 40 mph. I reasoned that there may be a problem with the rim tape on the wheel. Tyres under high pressure can get cut from the rim if the rim tape does not cover the spoke holes fully. Once I had the tyre off I could see the rim tape may not have covered the holes fully, possibly as a result of trying to get the stiff Bontranger tyre off.

I needed to get some new rim tape so myself and Phil tried to find a bike shop in the town. But this seemed to be more of a ski town than a bike town. At the ski shop they said there was not a bike shop in the town which was a surprise for a town this size. However, David had already said that he had some rim tape in the support vehicle.

Ax-les-Thermes is known for its thermal springs (hence the name) and outside the hotel was a public bath. Children were jumping in whilst others were just paddling their feet. The water was certainly warm. With our earlier finish we had a bit more time in the early evening to enjoy a drink at the cafe bar around the corner from the hotel. It was good to have an easier day but I was looking forward to the ride tomorrow which included the climb of the Port de Pailheres topping out at 2001m.

This was our longest day in the saddle covering over 100 kilometres riding from Bossost to Massat. We take in the climbs of the Col de Mente (1349m), the Col de Portet d’Aspet (1069m), the Col de la Core (1395m) and the Col de Saraille (942m). A long day and four cols. My headset is still not quite to my liking as there is too much movement but it will not be a problem to ride. I ask Phillipe if he can locate an adjustable spanner during the day. He said he would try. We ride out of Bossost along the flat main road, down the valley, in fine weather for about 16 kilometres, crossing back into France. A nice stretch to warm our legs up before the four cols we will tackle today. We regroup in St-Beat at the bottom of the Col de Mente before starting the climb. As ever, I soon find myself riding on my own as I can’t quite keep up with the guys ahead. Further along Rob has stopped by the side of road. As I ride past he shouts that his chain is jumping and he cannot continue. He says he will wait for Imogen in the support vehicle.

I ride on through the trees but the climb is not long at about 9 kilometres. It is a steady climb with the usual hairpin bends but no real steep sections. It is great to be climbing in the sun again. At the top of the climb we take a break at the cafe. We are now having cold drinks to cool us down rather than the hot drinks of the previous days. A group of white coated dogs are lying beneath the trees in an enclosure. They look like Huskies but I am not sure if they are. I guess they must be some kind of Pyreneean mountain dog (I think we saw some on the Aubisque or the Tourmalet as well). David and Geoff take a look at Rob’s bike and there is some discussion as to what the problem might be. It is a new chain and block, so should not be jumping.

We descend from the Col de Mente, regroup, then ride along an undulating valley to the bottom of the Col de Portet d’Aspet. Gareth has already warned us that this is a very steep climb but only short at 6 kilometres. Before we climb, though, I take a look at the memorial to Fabio Casartelli. This is just about 100 metres into the climb. Fabio Casartelli was a cyclist who sadly died after crashing on the descent of the Col de Portet d’Aspet in the 1995 Tour de France. He was the 1992 Olympic champion who would have surely have had a great career. The memorial shows a wheel sprouting a wing. It is made of marble and sits atop a piece of granite. Down one side there is an inscription in French and Italian. There are flowers and plants layed around the base, an indication as to his popularity, even after 12 years. It does make you think about the dangers of fast descents. We descend quickly but we can leave room for error. A mistake may have you off the bike. When these guys are racing, they descend faster, and there is little room for error. A mistake can cost you more dearly.

The climb of the Col de Portet d’Aspet is very steep in sections. I find myself struggling in parts and I could have done with another lower gear. But I manage to maintain my momentum and grind my way to the top. We break for lunch at the top of the climb. There is a spring across the road and we take the chance to stock up on water too. After another fine lunch we descend from the col with Rob taking up David’s offer of the use of his wheel so that he can continue the days ride.

The descent has the usual tight bends at the top but we are soon on gentler slopes as we ride down into the valley. We ride for about 10 kilometres in a generally downhill direction through the occasional small village, the valley widening as we head towards the Col de la Core. We regroup at the junction which takes us onto the climb.

The climb of the Col de la Core is our longest of the day at 13 kilometres but it is a steady climb. The signs that we are used to seeing have all but disappeared now. The only signs that have been appearing are at 3 kilometres from the top. I don’t mind too much as, after my earlier concerns in the week, I now feel that I am fairly comfortable on the climbs. I still can’t quite stay with the fast guys though. This is borne out on the lower slopes of this climb too as I gradually lose contact. Part way up the slope I catch them up as they have stopped on the road after meeting a swarm of bees. The bees have disappeared by the time I get there, though, and we resume the climb. After about the half way point of the climb you can see that the road seems to traverse the side of the valley as the col suddenly looms up. There are other cyclists on the climb too and I pass an elderly Frenchman on his bike. I think he must be easily in his sixties, maybe more. He has probably ridden these roads for decades and ridden the climb numerous times. I hope I am able to ride the cols when I am that age. Further on I begin to hope that the top of the col is not too far and I see the sign for 3 kilometres. There are a few more hairpin bends to negotiate first before I finally make the top. At the top there are quite a few cars and many walkers too. Some thicker cloud has now come across too, threatening rain.

From the Col de la Core we have a long descent of about 13 kilometres down to Seix. I seem to recall that Hugh’s chain came off near the top (it happened a few times on some of the descents) so I slowed to make sure he was okay. But the descent beckoned and I am now trying to descend as fast as I can. My goal is to try and stay with David, Geoff and Hugh who are the fast descenders. It is a fast descent with few tight bends and it is only nearer the bottom that I have to ease up as the road narrows through a village and we get into the back streets of Seix. We gather in the main square of Seix around the fountain. From Seix we have the option of the climb of the Col de Saraille or to take the flatter main road around the col. It has been a long day already but I have no option but to take the col. I feel that I must climb every col, now that I have ridden every one so far. Gareth, Geoff, Hugh, Matt, Rob and Vince also decide to climb the col whilst Donise, Pete and Phil decode to go the other route.

The climb of the Col de Saraille is on a very quiet single track road which takes us through a few small villages. It is not steep and there are some flat sections too. The road takes us into the forest before we reach the summit of the col. The descent continues through the trees and I pass Matt and Rob. I am reminded of the dangers of descending as I narrowly avoid a child crossing the road as we pass through a farm. Further on I meet horses and dogs in the road too before finally reaching Massat. As I ride into the hotel grounds Geoff tells me to take it easy as Vince has come off his bike on the gravel in the car park. Vince was to suffer the only cuts of the whole trip in this innocuous incident.

The hotel we stay in is slightly bizarre (I won’t tell you about my bed) and seems to be frequented mostly by dolls. Phillipe, though, has found an adjustable spanner (the French call them English Keys) so I don’t mind too much. I will be able to tighten my headset tomorrow. After a tiring day Donise, Gareth and Pete take advantage of a massage provided by Pat, who lives in the village. The rest of us relax with a beer followed by wine and a good meal in the evening.

It had rained during the night again but the day dawns with some brightness in the sky. Looking down the valley there are patches of blue sky and it is moving towards us. The rumour is that the weather will be fine. On the road today we will ride the Col d’Aspin (1489m), Col de Peyresourde (1569m) and the Col du Portillon (1320m) finishing across the border in Spain in the town of Bossost.

In the first few kilometres I can feel my legs are stiff from the day before but the lower slopes of the Col d’Aspin are not too steep. I gradually ride the stiffness out of my legs as I ride further on up the climb. The sun has finally come out which feels great after the dampness of the preceding days. Riding through the trees the sun flickers through. I look to my right and I can see patches of mist rising from the valley below. It looks quite surreal, it is very peaceful too with little traffic.

The climb is gradual, not too hard, with no real steep sections. I reach the top and it is great to see the view across to the other peaks. After a quick snack bar I put my jacket on as the descent will still be chilly despite the sun. I enjoy the descent and the views are great. I make a quick stop for a few photographs before descending into the town of Arreau where we stop at a cafe by the side of river to regroup.

From Arreau we ride along an undulating valley for about 10 kilometres before regrouping at the foot of the Col de Peyresourde. The climb is 10 kilometres too but harder than the Aspin. The gradient is steeper from the start but remains steady. With the sun out I now find myself getting hotter on the climb and can feel the sweat breaking out on my skin for the first time. I don’t mind though as I am thankful for the improved weather. As long as I have enough water I should be okay. On the lower slopes the road winds its way through the trees. I pass Gareth, who had set off earlier, and I can see Geoff and Rob up ahead. I gradually close on the pair ahead as we climb higher above the trees. The road is steady in its gradient as we pass the signs counting down the kilometres to top. Nearer the summit there is another road which goes off to the right. I wonder if we have to go up that as well. I hope not as it looks very steep. Further on it becomes clear that we don’t go that way so Rob sprints for the summit. I think he must be after KoM points. We have lunch at the top of the col which is a welcome break. We feast ourselves on baguettes, fruit and salad. All the healthy stuff of course.

The descent from the Col de Peyresourde is very fast. The bends in the road are wide and open which allows us to take more speed into them. There are longer straight sections too than we have ridden so far. I get to over 40 mph in one section and further down there is a speed camera. I see 60 kph. We descend into Bagneres-de-Louchon and compare speeds. Some have seen 69 kph.

During the day Vince has been having problems with his pedals and Rob has had a problem with a spoke in his wheel too. We ride to the bike shop in town. The shop could be described as an Aladdin’s Cave of cycling. There are all types of bikes leaning up against each other on the shop floor. So many there is not much space to move. Everywhere you look there are cycling bits and pieces. During the previous days riding my headset had become slightly loose so I decide to ask if it can be tightened. This proved to be a bit of a mistake as the bike shop owner decided it needed more work than that. He proceeded to take apart the handle bars and forks and brushed on copious amounts of oil. By the time he had finished the others had started the next climb, the Col du Portillon. Only Rob and I were left behind, Rob’s spoke needing a special tool which took a while to find. I set off to catch the others only for something to go ping in the headset 100 metres down the road. It is very loose so I have no option but to return to the shop. After another 10 minutes it is fixed again and I start the ride to catch the others.

I ride through the rest of town, which is busy with a lot of traffic, to start climb of the Col du Portillon. Initially I am not sure if I am on the right road but another cyclist passes me, so I guess I must be heading in right direction. On this climb there are no signs to count down the kilometres. I have no idea how long the climb is either. I try and ride as fast as I can to try and catch the others but there are some very steep sections on the climb and it is also quite hot in the late afternoon sun. I decide to take a break at what I think is about half way up the climb. But a few hairpin bends later I find myself at the top where I am relieved to see Donise and Phil.

The top of the Col du Portillon marks the border with Spain but there is nothing that I can see that would tell you that. After a quick break I decide to descend. Only the fact that the road signs are now in Spanish tells me that I have crossed the border. The road surface is good and smooth and the hairpin bends are not too sharp. I think this is my best descent so far from a technical point of view and I thoroughly enjoy it. At the bottom I see Hugh, Pete and David. I have finally caught up with the others. We ride to the hotel in the town of Bossost.

The day dawned similar to the previous. Cool and damp with mist over the mountains. Today we will tackle the Col d’Aubisque (1709m), Col du Soulor (again, 1474m) and the Col du Tourmalet (2115m). These are mighty climbs, steep and long. In the Tour De France the Aubisque and the Tourmalet are categorised as Hors Category - above category. Despite having now completed three major climbs I have my worries about the day ahead. How hard is it going to be? In the town of Eaux-Bonnes, where we stayed the night, we are already part way up the climb of the Col d’Aubisque but we still have 13 kilometres to climb. Once you have ridden out of the town square you are on the climb. On the climb the road surface is smooth and the gradient is steady but steep. I see the familiar signs once again and start to count down the kilometres. I have started the ride in just a jersey and arm warmers but as I climb and get amongst the cloud the temperature drops. David arrives in the support vehicle and I get my jacket for the remainder of the climb. A little further on I stop to take a break and a photograph. Vince and Rob ride by.

I start to ride again. The road winds upward and I pass through the town of Gourette in which the road takes a sharp left turn. A little further on and we are above the tree line but all that can be seen is the mist. It is not raining but it is very damp. However, it is not dampening my spirits and whilst the climb is hard I feel comfortable on my bike. My earlier worries have vanished now. There are more cows on the side of the road. I arrive at the summit as some of the others are taking photographs of the road sign indicating the top of the Col. I do the same. I quickly grab some food as the remainder of the group arrive, including Pete, who has admitted to finding the going tough but who has made each climb so far. Pete was to have an interesting day.

Next on the agenda is a short descent followed by a short climb to the Col du Soulor. We approach this from a different direction to the day before. This road seems to cling to the side of mountain and in one section the mist has cleared slightly and I can see across to the road ahead as it bends around the mountain. There is steep drop down to the left. The road is fairly narrow and I have to be cautious as there are caravans and camper vans coming the other way. I also have to stop momentarily as the road is blocked by a farmer moving his sheep. Further on there is a short tunnel to negotiate. There is no light in the tunnel but two cars coming in the opposite direction initially light my way. Once they have passed, however, I momentarily cannot see the road until the tunnel bends further around and there is enough light to guide me through. At the summit of the Col du Soulor we gather in the cafe that we used the previous day and have a hot drink. All the group are there apart from Pete. We wonder if he has carried on or taken a wrong turn.

We descend again to Argeles-Gazost but nobody has seen Pete. We ride a short distance out of the town to take lunch at a picnic site. The weather is not so bad now as we are off the mountain but there is still mist covering the peaks. I have a problem with my pedal also. I initially think it is a stone that has got into the cleat of my cycling shoe. It turned out to be a small stone that had lodged in the clip in the pedal preventing it from springing back. By this stage Pete has still not been seen since the top of the Aubisque. I call him. He has been trying to get a signal on his mobile phone to make a call and has found his way to a village called Arthez d’Asson. It seems he took a wrong turn on the Col du Soulor and went down the way we went up yesterday. I tell him not to worry as David is coming to find him.

After lunch once again (but for the last time) we ride through the gorge on the road to Luz-St-Sauveur. After a short ride through the town we are on the climb of the Col du Tourmalet. It is the longest so far at 17 kilometres and it will take us to a height of 2115m, our highest point of the journey. On the lower slopes we ride out of the town and I pass Gareth. I don’t think Rob is too far behind either. I set my rhythm and pace myself for the task ahead. This is going to take a good deal longer than the other climbs so far. As I ride through the hairpin bends I look back and can see two other cyclists behind me. I take them to be locals. One soon passes and before long has disappeared up the road. Imogen and Phillipe drive by in the support van making sure that everyone is okay. I ride through the town of Bareges about half way up the climb. The road has straightened but remains steep and soon I am riding in the cloud and think mist. The cyclist who passed me has stopped ahead for a break. I decide to stop as well to put my jacket on as it is getting colder. I don’t speak French and he doesn’t speak English but we manage to communicate to each other that we are both riding to the top. He sets off, I follow, but I cannot stay with him and he gradually eases away. I decide to go at my own pace again. I begin to count down the kilometres as I ride past the ski lifts and a group of walkers. I decide that I will stop one more time for some food at 6 kilometres to go. I find that setting smaller targets helps me get to the bigger target. After stopping the road becomes twisty again with hairpin bends. In the last few kilometres the road steepens too. I finally make the top but it has been hard and my legs feel shaky. Imogen and Phillipe are at the top to greet me. I feel good that I have made the climb and the highest point of our journey. Vince, Hugh, Matt and Geoff are already in the cafe. It is only then when I am set in damp clothes that I begin to feel the cold despite a hot drink. Gradually the others turn up with Pete getting the loudest cheer.

The descent of the Col du Tourmalet is coldest I have ever been on a bike. The dampness from the thick mist and the wind chill combine to make my hands freezing cold, even though I have full length gloves on. I follow Vince, Hugh and Geoff on the soaking wet road but we cannot see very far ahead of us. I dare not to let go of the brake leavers as my hands are so cold I do not think I could move my fingers again. I begin to shiver as well. As we descend through the town of La Mongie, momentarily, the road appears to widen into four lanes. It is very disorientating in the mist. I wonder if we are on the wrong side of the road but there are signs indicating that the extra two lanes are for a car park. As the descent continues we eventually ride out of the mist and it begins to feel less cold. The descent eases and we ride along the valley to our overnight stop at Ste-Marie-de-Campan.

That evening we have a wonderful meal with two or three bowls of hot soup, chicken and vegetables. This is just what we need after a long day and the cold of the mountains. I hope that tomorrow the weather is improved.

With the damp conditions it was time for the rain jacket and tights to keep out the cold. On the agenda today were the Col de Spandelles (1378m) and the Col du Soulor (1474m). We rode out of Luz-St-Sauveur along a gorge. To the right of the road is a sheer rock face and to the left a river, fast flowing after the overnight rain. It is mostly gently downhill as we head towards the town of Argeles-Gazost about 18 km down the road. It is a good chance to warm up before the climbs. I find that my legs and back feel fine. We regroup at a bike shop on the edge of town and take on a bit of food, bananas and cereal bars.

The climb of the Col de Spandelles is very different to that of Luz Ardiden. The road is narrow and the surface is not as good. The gradient also varies to a much a greater degree and there are no signs to mark your progress. In some ways this makes it more difficult than the previous day. It is harder to get into a rhythm. You would find yourself on a steep section that would flatten out for a short while (there are even some downhill sections) before the next steep section arrived. On this climb there are gullies which run down and across the road. They are about two inches wide and defined in the road by strips of metal. With the wet road surface and wet tyres the back wheel occasionally spins as it crosses the metal strips. We ride through forest for most of the climb and towards the top I notice yellow and black coloured lizards on the road. I try to avoid them but some of them have already been squashed by the few vehicles that are on the road. Again I find myself riding alone but I can see Phil and Rob up ahead. I begin to wonder where the top of the climb is. As I ride to just above the tree line I can see the support vehicle and some of those that have reached the summit already.

It is cold and wet at the top of the climb. There is a cold wind blowing and the mist is thick. I cannot see across to any other peaks or the valley below. I have brought a camera but there is nothing to photograph other than the mist.

The descent is on a narrow road too which is also wet. With tight bends we all descend with care, following each other in a line. We regroup at the bottom before riding a short distance along the valley to start the climb of Col du Soulor. On this climb the road surface is better and again I find myself riding alone staying at my own pace. I begin to feel hungry on the climb so I stop for a break and take on some food. I do not want to get what cyclists call ‘the knock’, a sudden loss of energy. Not on a climb like this. I only ride a short distance before some of the others have decided to do the same. We regroup again and I ride with Geoff and Rob. Above the tree line the mist is thick and there is not a lot to see apart from the group of cows standing by the side of the road. They have cow bells around their necks making the familiar low ‘clinking’ sound (gotta have more cow bell). As we ride past the cows they do not stir. It has been a hard climb so far but for the last few kilometres the road eases. At the top we find shelter from the cold mist in a cafe and have hot drinks to help keep us warm. In the cafe we hear that Donise has not made the last 3 kilometres but is in the support vehicle. If she had known that the last few kilometres eased off I am sure she would have made it.

As we start the descent back to Argeles-Gazost it begins to rain. But the road is wide and, whilst there are hairpin bends to negotiate at first, the road straightens out and the descent eases further down. In the town we take lunch. Baguettes filled with ham and cheese and slices of pizza. Imogen cuts her hand making lunch and cannot cycle for the remainder of the day.

After lunch we start the ride back to Luz-St-Sauveur. We momentarily appear lost in the one way system of Argeles but eventually find our way out of the town. I decide to take an easy ride back along the gorge. I ride with Donise as she does not have Imogen to ride with now. The ride back is gently uphill and the rain has stopped now. I am happy to have completed the two climbs today without the pain I experienced on Luz Ardiden and I feel more confident about tackling the climbs ahead.

Once back at the hotel we change out of our wet cycling kit, load the bikes into the trailer and start the transfer to Eaux-Bonnes, where we will spend the night. Our journey takes a little longer than it should as we circle around Lourdes twice before finding the right road out of the town.

At the hotel we all enjoy a drink before dinner. I ask Phillipe what the weather forecast is tomorrow. We look at the local paper and it says it will not be so bad. Overnight it rains heavily and I do not sleep well again. Maybe it is the rain keeping me awake or maybe it is the thought of tackling the Col d’Aubisque and the Col du Tourmalet tomorrow.

I just thought I would try and write down some of my thoughts and experiences, along with a few photographs, on a recent cycling trip through the Pyrenees, the mountain range lying on the border of France and Spain. The trip was organised by a company called Saddle Skedaddle (www.skedaddle.co.uk) and featured in their brochure - Classic Road Rides. Having been a cyclist for quite a few years and having watched the Tour de France on the TV the I had idea of tackling some of the climbs for myself. So I turned to Saddle Skedaddle, the trip was arranged, and after a few months of extra training during the wet summer I found myself flying into Pau airport one August Sunday morning along with nine other intrepid adventurers.

Day 1

Donise, Hugh, Gareth, Geoff, Matt, Pete (who I have travelled with from Hull), Phil, Rob, Vince and I were met by our tour guides, David and Imogen, along with our driver Phillipe. The weather in Pau was hot and sunny and our guides remarked that it has been so the previous week. I hoped that would be the case for our week too. Looking south from Pau you could see the mountains of the Pyrenees rising suddenly out of the plain stretching into the distance. It was quite a sight and added to the anticipation. We loaded up the van and trailer with our bikes and luggage and started to head along the motorway. With each passing kilometre the mountains neared, seeming to get ever higher. Before long we were amongst them, travelling down valleys with peaks to the left and right.

Our first destination was a town called Luz-St-Sauveur which lies at the foot of the Col du Tourmalet, a classic Tour de France climb. But that was to come later. We would have a few more climbs to tackle before then to get us into the swing of things. The first of these was the climb to Luz Ardiden which went straight out of and above the town. We had some lunch first and prepared our bikes for the afternoon’s ride. The climb to Luz Ardiden (1735m) is 13.4km with an average gradient of 7.6%. I had read this before the trip but they were just numbers. They had no true meaning to me. 13.4km seems a short distance and can 7.6% be so steep. It is not until you start to climb that the reality hits you. Having never ridden up a mountain before this was quite a shock. The first thing I noticed was that I was soon in my very lowest gear trying desperately trying to stay with the fast guys at the front. But it soon became apparent that I should go at my own pace. This initial realisation was to serve me well for the rest of trip. Go at your own pace and you’ll get through. Once on the climb I settled into a rhythm, just doing my own thing. The second thing you notice are the signs. These signs count down the kilometres to the summit of the climb. They also provide information on the average gradient. They are heaven and hell in one breath. The sign says 9km to go (only 9) but the average gradient says 8%. You think to yourself that if I can get through this one then the next kilometre will be easier. Then I will only have 8km to go. The next sign appears and you are right. 8 kilometres to go, average gradient 7%. Ok. A little easier now. And so they go on. Each one different to the last. Some harder, some less hard.

I can see my room mate, Phil, up ahead. He decides to stop for a break. We acknowledge each other as I ride passed but I decide to plough on. The sign says 3 to go but I am starting to experience pain now. My legs feel fine but it is in my lower back that I am feeling it. I have to get out of the saddle for a short while to ease the pain, but this just makes my legs burn. By this time I am above the tree line and I begin to imagine that I can see top of the climb but it is just the road winding through the hairpin bends. There is something else I realise too with the bends. If the bend is such that you are on the inside of the corner as you turn, the road becomes much steeper. If you are on the outside of the corner as you turn, the road flattens out and gives you a fleeting respite from the climb. After riding some of the bends on the inside I begin to think that if I ride in the middle of the road on these bends then it will be easier. I soon find myself doing this, checking there are no other vehicles coming up behind. When one does, preventing me from moving to middle of the road, I find myself cursing them for making my life that little harder. The sign now says 1 kilometre to go. I can see another rider ahead turning through the bends. The pain is a little more now but I am going to reach the top. I finally make the final turn and the pain is strong. Four have made the top already - Hugh, Geoff, Matt and Vince. David races from behind to pip me as well. I climb off the bike but I struggle to walk. I sit down for a short while and begin to slowly recover. I think it has taken over an hour to do the climb but I am not sure. Phil, Pete and Gareth come in soon after but cloud has now come over and thunder can be heard. It seems to be coming from over the peak.

After a short break and with the thunder sounding ever nearer we decide to descend. Having now completed my first mountain climb I am now looking forward to my first mountain descent. We go down the way we came up (the only time on the trip that we do this).13km, all downhill. What is that going to feel like? I know I am going to enjoy it and I am not disappointed. Immediately I pick up speed and immediately there is a hairpin bend to contend with. I make sure I brake hard with both front and rear before I turn for the corner. I find that you must not turn in and have the front brake on. This shifts the weight balance forward and can cause the rear tyre slide. Once through the turn I let gravity take care of the rest. Soon I have caught up with a white car. I find that the car is holding me up. I wait for an opportunity to pass. On these roads you can descend faster than a car. They have to brake earlier for bends and cannot take them as fast. A bit further down I pass another but the thunder is nearer now. I get about two thirds down before the rain comes. I decide to be more circumspect in my descent. I do not know what the road will be like in the wet. I come down the lower slopes and amongst the buildings of the town. I am completely soaked now and the rain is coming down hard. I come to a junction at the bottom of the climb and see Geoff and David trying to take shelter from the rain against a building. I join them and wait for the rest. Thankfully, everyone makes it down safe and we ride the short distance back to hotel as the sun comes out.

Back at the hotel, the adrenaline of the climb and descent are starting to wear off and I am reminded that I only had 45 minutes sleep the night before. I try and rest on the bed and think about the climb. I still ache in my lower back and begin to worry that if I have that pain on each climb then it is going to be hard. Before dinner David takes us through the itinerary for the week, as we each have a well deserved drink. A map is spread out across the table with our route marked on. It looks a long way. Gareth has produced some charts of the climbs we will do. The cross-sections show the gradients at points on the climb and are marked in different colours. Blue and yellow are 6% and 8%. Red is 10% or more. Gareth shows us those with red bits on. The Col du Tourmalet, Col de Portet d’Aspet and Port de Pailheres to name a few. All evocative names in the world of cycling and I am going to climb them all.

The thunder and heavy rain carry on in the night and, despite my tiredness, I do not sleep well, but the pain I had has eased off considerably. The next morning it is damp and there is low cloud covering the mountains.